Thursday, October 8, 2009

Spain - San Sebastien

After a very pleasant day and a half in Bilbao we headed back to San Sebastien, a place we have long wanted to visit. The drive back was interesting to say the least. We decided to avoid the motorway on the return journey as time was not an issue, but I underestimated the need for a map. We had actually driven to Spain without a Spanish road map (or a GPS) – not a challenge if you use the motorways and can read the ample signage – but get on the N and D roads, amongst the frequent little villages, and you quickly reminded why maps were invented. We were also thrown of the scent by the names San Sebastien and Donostia being used interchangeably. What our limited reading had not told us is that the Basque name for San Sebastien is Donostia. Once we had worked that out, and circumnavigated many roundabouts multiple times while we assessed the correct exit, we finally made it into SS The next challenge was finding the pension we had booked, which we knew was in the Parte Vieja or “old town” and that it was highly unlikely we could get the car anywhere close. Somehow we did get close (without realizing it), decided to stop and ask directions at a little bookshop, after parking illegally. After a bit of fun with the shop owner, and his customer who both got involved, it turned out we were only 100m from our destination, so my homing instinct had worked again.
The pension, Lonely Planets “authors choice”, was in the oldest building in San Sebastien. It was quaint but certainly no more than 1 star. A tiny bedroom with a bed about 25cm too short for me, so my feet hung out over the end while sleeping, and a shared bathroom. However the mattress was OK, the sheets clean, no-one else was using the bathroom that we did, and it was superbly located, so for just a 2 night stay Lonely Planet did not really let us down.

San Sebastien is stunningly beautiful seaside city of just under 200,000 inhabitants, built around 2 large bays, one with a narrow entrance guarded by a small island, surrounded by mountains and divided roughly in half by a picturesque river, the Rio Urumea. Its 3 famous “playas” or beaches are reminiscent of several Sydney beaches including Bondi. Since the 19th century it has been a favourite summer destination for the Spanish elite, including the royal family we are told. Its character is enhanced by the existence of an active fishing fleet that ties up very close to the old town. Lots of similarities with Fremantle, just more geographically spectacular. In fact on one of our many walks I was waxing lyrical about SS and said to Gaye “I could easily live in a place like this” – she said “you do” - I said “you’re right”….and she was!

SS is also renowned as the culinary capital of Spain, if not Europe, with more Michelin stars per head of population than any other city in the world, and a concentration of tapas bars in the old town greater than any other in Spain, and that is saying something. Needless to say our time in SS was dominated by much walking, with frequent interruptions for pintxos, beer and txacoli (the traditional Basque wine). The tapas here are actually pintxos, the Basque version of tapas, with bread playing a dominant role. Every establishment displays its pintxos on uncovered plates set out along the bar, with typically 20-30 different choices. Usually the customer is given a plate and walks along selecting the pintxos they want, order a drink and then part with their money. The pintxos very in price from about 1.5 – 3.5 euros each, a small beer 2 and a large beer about 3.5. It is actually a very unhygienic process that our over-zealous public health authorities would never allow in Oz.

We believe this fabulous city would appeal to anybody and everybody we know, and have no hesitation in saying “add it to your European itinerary” (and don’t forget Bilbao while you are here).

Some images of San Sebastien for your enjoyment:


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